Tibetan pride

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For the past two weeks, Maria and I have pedaled up and down across the several mountain ranges of northern Sichuan, a region with a Tibetan majority. Our plans to reach the town of Zoige from Juizhaigou in two days were extended to 5 for several reasons. While we thought we would only climb one high mountain pass, we ended up crossing three; and we were offered several invitations to spend the night with Tibetan familes (which we gladly accepted). After 750km of travel and nearly 8000m of climbing, I now sit in a small smokey internet room in the town of Zoige, at the edge of a stunning grassland plateau at 3000m. It has been 16 days since we left Chengdu.
The couple days rest in Juizhaigou served us well. We walked along the Juizhaigou National Park, a surreal valley of clear blue lakes and wide-spanning waterfalls. Despite its impressiveness, I was happy to move on due to the incredible amount of tourists. They were all Chinese and Japanese tourists, though. I only saw two other foreigners. :) It is illegal for a foreigner to travel alone on a motorcyle or in an automobile. The only way to experience the backroads is by bicycle or by hitchhiking. Lucky us. From Juizhaigou on, the roads were virtually all ours. No more honking. The tropical climate of Chengdu is far away. To my disappointment, bananas are hard to come by now, but we were greeted by gorgeous green alpine landscape. Tsampa is the tibetan staple meal consisting of barley, butter, water, and sometimes sugar and dried yak cheese. Along our route, we were welcomed and encouraged by many road workers. At lunch time, we were invited to a meal of rice, potatoes and pig fat with twenty workers. It was a great moment to rest under the shade in good company.

After our second pass at 3450m, we descend to Gewa, a town of no more than 50 people; it is getting dark and we wonder where we will sleep. A boy on a motorcycle passes us, waves, and then soon returns with an encouraging wave. We follow him and find ourselves in a beautiful wooden home with a hot meal, surrounded by five smiling faces ranging from 3 to 83 years old. We spend the entire following day with them, spreading and drying their yak cheese, following their baby yaks to graze, and trying to learn how to cook. The last time a foreigner stayed in Gewa had been three years ago.
After two nights, we say goodbye and head towards Zoige. Well, we barely make it past 10km that day. We reach the town of Chuje. At the bend, we are lured by an imposing 750 year-old buddhist gompa from high above a cliff. The inside is decorated with detailed paintings and cloths. We walk around the town, peaking through the doors into courtyards. While some houses appear fairly new, they have maintained their traditional Tibetan architecture. At end of the road we see several monks painting a new home. That was enough for me; Five minutes later, I have a paintbrush in hand detailing windowframes with a rainbow of colors.
People are fortunate here: food and water are plenty in this lush mountain region. Nevertheless, life in the mountains is hard; but the Tibetans hold such a strong sense of pride; for their home and their family. They enjoy showing us their homes; they built them themselves. In Gewa, four generations lived under one roof. I admire their sense of community.
We finally reach Zoige the following day (yesterday). After reaching a pass of over 3000m, I am amazed at the sudden change of scenery. The mountains disappear as flat grasslands reach the horizon. Even the people look and dress differently. It's the romantic image of the dark-skinned Tibetan Nomad, drapped in long garbs, their face covered from the sun, their necks adorned with massive corals, riding into the dust clouds with their heards of yak or sheep.
Tomorrow we head for Langmusi (the long way, of course), hoping to meet nomads. Our bags are considerably heavier with food and water. When we reach Xiahe, internet may be available.
Thank you for all your emails. It's great to get news from home.
Until the next post!